Movado — Chronographs in Motion

1. Foundations and the spirit of “always in motion”

The brand was founded in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Achille Ditesheim. In 1892, he joined forces with his brothers Léopold and Isidore to create L.A. & I. Ditesheim, Fabricants. In 1905, the company adopted the name Movado, meaning “always in motion” in Esperanto.

2. Aesthetic and technical innovations

Movado stood out with creations such as the Polyplan (1912), with a calibre built on three inclined planes, the Curviplan (1920s), the Ermeto pocket watch (1926) with sliding case, and the iconic Museum Watch (1947), with its minimalist dial and single dot at 12 o’clock. Other highlights include the Chronoplan, Curvex, Astronic, Datron, and the link with the legendary El Primero.

3. Exceptional chronographs: 90M and 95M

In 1938, Movado introduced the calibre 90M, a modular two-register chronograph. In 1939, the 95M followed, adding an hour counter. These calibres are notable for their inverted pusher configuration: the lower button starts/stops the chronograph, while the upper one resets — the opposite of the usual layout.

Frequently cased in waterproof François Borgel (FB) cases, especially the Sub-Sea Chronograph, the 95M (or M95) was produced in fewer than 20,000 examples between the 1940s and 1970s. Their rarity, reliability, and unique architecture make them highly collectible today.

4. Horological heritage

The 90M and 95M calibres remained in production until 1969, when Movado launched the Datron HS 360, powered by the famous El Primero. These chronographs reflect a balance of technical innovation and refined design, and remain milestones in Swiss watchmaking history.

---

Sources

• Movado — Official history, Polyplan, Curviplan, Ermeto, Museum Watch
• WatchesBySJX — Study of calibres 90M and 95M
• The Arrow of Time — History of Movado
• Rescapement — FB 95M chronograph
• AnalogShift — Sub-Sea Chronograph
• Wikipedia (EN/FR) — Foundations, Museum, El Primero, Datron

Note: Movado also shaped watchmaking history with the Polyplan, Curviplan, Chronoplan, Curvex, Astronic, Datron and its connection to El Primero.