Auricoste Type 20

The Auricoste Type 20 belongs to the family of military chronographs developed for French aviation in the early 1950s. Designed in accordance with the Type 20 military specifications, this watch meets strict requirements in terms of legibility, robustness and functionality, notably through the integration of the flyback (“return-to-zero”) function.

The example presented is powered by the Lemania 2040 calibre, a manually wound mechanical chronograph derived from the Lemania 15TL base and adapted for intensive aviation use. This architecture was selected for its reliability, operational stability and ease of servicing—essential qualities in a military context.

The restoration of this Auricoste Type 20 was carried out with full respect for its original condition, prioritising the preservation of historical components, military issue markings and the patina acquired over time. The movement was fully dismantled, cleaned, lubricated and regulated according to period tolerances, without any non-authentic aesthetic alteration.

Through this intervention, the watch retains its value as a technical and historical testimony, representative of French Air Force and Naval Aviation issued chronographs, and more broadly of 20th-century Swiss military watchmaking.

Designed in the early 1950s to meet the military Type 20 specifications, this Auricoste is a chronograph intended for French aviation.

More than a watch, it is a genuine navigation instrument, conceived for use in real operational conditions.

Immediate legibility, control ergonomics, and the flyback function define this timepiece designed for pilots of the French Air Force and Naval Aviation.

Every element of the dial serves a specific function, with no decorative concessions.

This piece belongs to a tradition of utilitarian watchmaking, where technology is entirely at the service of the mission.

The case back bears service and inventory engravings, typical of watches issued under military procurement.These markings are not aesthetic in nature; they bear witness to the watch’s operational history and to the monitoring it underwent throughout its active service life.

Preserved in their original state, they form an essential part of the authenticity of this Auricoste Type 20.

Opening the case reveals the classic architecture of a 1950s military chronograph.The entire construction is designed to be robust, accessible, and serviceable, in accordance with the requirements of the Type 20 specification.

Nothing here is superfluous: every component is intended to ensure reliable and durable operation in an aviation context.

This Auricoste Type 20
is powered by the Lemania 2040, a hand-wound mechanical chronograph incorporating a flyback function.
This calibre is documented as an evolution of the Lemania 15TL base, adapted to the constraints of military use.Its design prioritises operational stability, control legibility, and long-term reliability.Here, the flyback complication is not a commercial feature, but a direct response to the needs of pilots.

The reverse side of the dial bears the marks of utilitarian manufacture and genuine use.This is a rarely visible element, yet fundamental to understanding the construction and industrial logic of these military watches.

No aesthetic intervention has been carried out on this component, in order to preserve its original condition.

The inside of the case back is marked “Stainless steel”, together with a case number.These inscriptions attest to the materials used and to the traceability of the manufacturing process.

As with the rest of the watch, these elements have been preserved without alteration, in a spirit of patrimonial respect.

The restoration of this Auricoste Type 20 was conducted with a conservation
focused approach: complete disassembly of the movement, cleaning, lubrication, and regulation in accordance with original tolerances.
The dial, hands, and luminous elements were deliberately preserved, in order to retain the historical reading and the patina acquired over decades of use.This intervention follows an approach in which the watch remains прежде all a technical and historical testimony, faithful to its original purpose.